Saturday, July 27, 2024

Secular vs Sacred

The Catholic Peace Weekly's Faith Platform column had an interesting visit to Genoa Italy by a religious researcher who was visiting the ocean city while living in France with her husband, there because of his work. 

During her time in France, she visited the port city of Genoa in northern Italy several times. The city center of Genoa was connected like a maze by narrow alleys, that brought people and events to mind that had been interwoven throughout its long history. 

When one walks into these square-like spaces, more correctly large spaces, there is usually a church. The churches of Genoa were old buildings on a narrow alley and the interiors were colourful. It was probably the legacy of the Principality of Genoa, which built on its mighty naval power, which thrived in trade, and banking, with enormous wealth.

Because she spent a lot of time alone in Genoa, she found a laundry room, a good place to eat, and pray on the streets. She didn't have to hurry like a tourist. It was a new and enjoyable experience with the tension and solemnity of strange places. One of the most memorable places was the Cathedral of St. Mary Magdalene.

One day as she walked along a narrow road, which was not very visible, between streets with many citizens, there were women in short dresses, as if waiting for somebody— everywhere. "Wow, I am in the wrong place," she thought and got out of the alley quickly with fear. She saw a small church at the end of the street. She hurried as if she had found a shelter,  a fresco filled the ceiling overwhelming her eyes. "Oh!" When she sat down with her eyes fixed on the ceiling, the confusion and fear she felt all disappeared. "This is  beautiful in such a remote place!" She wanted to know where she was and turned on the map app and checked the location, it was Magdalena Street, Magdalene Square.

Magdalene was a prostitute and was known for a long time as the woman who met Jesus and made atonement. The Catholic Church later rectified the misconception that Magdalene was a prostitute. It recognized her as a more faithful and courageous person than anyone who first announced the resurrection of Jesus. 

However, Magdalena would have been accepted as a symbol of atonement and forgiveness when the church was built. Later it was discovered that there was a long-standing border in the streets of Magdalena against the sailors, where a cathedral was first built in the 12th century. Then, at the end of the 16th century, the church was completely renovated, filled with golden ornaments and ceilings, and much of the money was donated by the women of the suburbs and the guests who visited them.

It's unclear how much of this is true, but it's certain that both the people living on Magdalena Street and those visiting it desperately sought redemption. Perhaps they wanted to maintain a thread of hope for atonement and forgiveness by placing the most sacred place in the most profane area. 

After walking for about 5-6 minutes from Magdalena Street, She found herself on Via Roma, lined with luxury boutiques. Seeing herself captivated by the glittering shop windows instead of frescoes, she thought— "This may be for me  the more profane and secular area of the two."